When: When soil temperatures reach 55°F for about three days in a row, usually around the time the forsythia bushes bloom yellow. In central Illinois that's often late March to mid-April.

What: A crabgrass preventer that includes fertilizer (see Recommended Products below).

Why: Crabgrass sprouts from seed every spring. A preventer stops it before you ever see it, and the fertilizer wakes up your lawn.

Heads up: Crabgrass preventer also stops new grass seed from growing. If you want to seed, plan on doing it in the fall instead.

When: About 2–3 weeks after Step 1, once dandelions and clover are actively growing.

What: A weed and feed product. Apply it to damp grass (morning dew is perfect) so the granules stick to the weed leaves, and don't water it in for 24 hours.

Why: Knocks out spring weeds while feeding your lawn.

When: Late May to early June, before the real summer heat.

What: Fertilizer. If weeds are popping up, spot-treat them instead of spreading weed killer over the whole lawn again.

Why: Gives your grass strength going into the hot, dry part of the year.

When: Late August to early September. Wait for a stretch where highs are in the low 80s or cooler.

What: Fertilizer, watered in afterward.

Why temperature matters: Feeding during hot weather can stress or burn your lawn. Once temperatures drop, your grass starts growing and recovering again, so the food actually gets used.

When: Late September to October.

What: Fertilizer. This is one of the most important feedings of the year.

Why: Fall is when cool-season grass builds roots. A strong fall feeding means a thicker, greener lawn next spring.

When: Late October to November, before the ground freezes. Keep mowing until the grass stops growing.

What: A winterizer fertilizer, or a weed and feed if fall weeds are showing up.

Why: Feeds the roots over winter so your lawn greens up faster in spring.

You don't need to spray your whole yard every time a weed shows up. For clover, dandelions and other broadleaf weeds, spot-treat just the problem areas.

Our pick: Gordon's Trimec. It works great on clover and dandelions.

Tips: Spray on a calm day, 60–85°F, with no rain expected for 24 hours. Don't mow for a couple days before or after spraying. Always follow the label.

Grubs eat grass roots and can leave brown patches that peel up like carpet.

When: Apply a preventive grub control in late spring to early summer (May to early July), before the new grubs hatch.

Signs of grubs: Brown patches that lift easily when you tug the grass, or skunks and birds digging in your lawn.

Best time: Late August through September. That's when the soil is warm, the air is cooler, and new grass grows best with less competition from weeds.

Aeration pulls small plugs of soil out of your lawn so air, water and fertilizer can reach the roots. Overseeding spreads new seed to fill in thin spots and thicken your lawn. Doing them together is one of the best things you can do for your lawn.

We offer aeration and overseeding! Get a free quote at the bottom of this page or call (608) 289-6817.

Not all grass seed is the same. Before you buy, flip the bag over and check:

Grass types: Make sure it matches your lawn and your sun or shade.

Weed seed: Look for as close to 0% as possible.

Germination rate: Higher is better, ideally 85% or more.

Test date: Fresher seed grows better.

Other crop seed and filler: The less, the better.

Cheap seed is often full of filler and weed seed. Good seed is worth it.

Water early in the morning, ideally before 10 a.m., so the grass dries off during the day.

Water deeply but not every day. Aim for about 1 inch per week total, including rain, spread over 2–3 waterings.

Avoid watering in the evening. Grass that stays wet overnight is the number one cause of lawn fungus.

New seed is different: Keep it lightly moist every day until it sprouts and fills in.

About fungus: Hot, humid weather and wet grass can lead to problems like brown patch and dollar spot. Good watering habits prevent most of it. If fungus keeps coming back, a fungicide can help, but it's important to know what you're treating first.

Not sure what you're seeing? Send Nick a photo and we'll take a look: (608) 289-6817.